The good and difficult in Nam and Cam

Visiting Cambodia and Vietnam was such a fantastic expierence; the temples at Angkor, touring the Mekong Delta and cruising Halong Bay rank among the best things we did on this trip.

We didn't spend long in Cambodia, and most of the time there we spent getting to and expierencing Siem Reap's Angkor Temples, which are, without a doubt, the best ancient ruins I've ever seen. Note: parts of the site are over a millenium old and at the Angkor empire's height it held a commanding influence over the region; its population was a million at a time when London's was only 80,000; the temples were built by Hindus under the leadership of god-kings each trying to one up their predessecor; later some sites were adopted and restored by Buddhists; many structures had to be reclaimed by an encroaching jungle that began breaking down the temples when they were deserted 400 or so years ago.

The result is: an expansive and grand temple complex; a fusion of religious influences in the design of surviving structures, art and scultpures; and, baring witness to the power of nature as jungle tree roots weave their way in, out and around decaying stone buildings. I'm no archeologist and find drawn out descriptions of ancient sites quite tiring, but expierencing Angkor is inspiring, adventurous and fuel for the imagination. If it's any indication of anything: I'm dreading going through the 8 million pictures we took during our two days visiting the site.

The first highlight of Vietnam was touring the Mekong Delta in style on a luxory junk (old transport boat converted into fancy cabins). This voyage afforded us the opportunity to watch life go by on the water: floating market traders exchanging fresh produce, shipbuilding and small brick making factories making an industrial dent on the region's natural beauty, and transportation and farming rounding up the extent of activity. Women in conical hats rowing small wooden boats on the muddy water with deep green jungle bush growing right up to the shore's edge being the most iconic image of south Vietnam for me.

After some time in Ho Chi Minh city and Hoi An (got work clothes tailored... what came first the job or the clothes... Hrmm, actually nevermind I think definately clothing), as well as completing the entire stretch of the Reunification Express rail line, we arrived in Hanoi for our connection to Halong Bay. I should note that niether the rail journey (30 to 40 hours in all) nor reunification (WWII to end of Vietnam-American War) were in anyway an express affair.

Getting to Halong Bay from Hanoi is a tourist trap and bureaucratic nightmare, but once you're on the water sipping a bevie sailing passed giant tree-covered limestone rock structures those nuisances don't seem to matter. I guess there are 3000 Halongs (not their real name) in all, ranging in shapes and size, but many being generally tall and skinny and 30 to 80 or so of me tall (I'm six foot, four inches). Geologists may digress, but the halongs were created by a giant ancient dragon who tore up the region with his flapping tail a while back as he travelled through the area. His handy work makes for outstanding natural beauty and the perfect setting for kayaking, swimming and cave exploring (thanks dragon).

Experiencing Vietnam in general was also a real treat. Vietnamese food is healthy, delicious and cheap - pho (noodle soup), bun (noodle, fish sause mix, and BBQ minced pork) and ben xio (prawn pancakes) being obvious favourites. In Hanoi I found local brew for 3000 dong a glass, about 20 cents Canadian. Backpacker budgeteers rejoice - good cold beer while watching life go by outside on the corner of a busy street in Hanoi's Old Quarter. It's beer and cultural - gold! I figure an hour's work at Starbucks would earn enough to buy a drink for patrons at all four of the intersection's busy beer stalls.

The people are friendly, life on the streets is busy, and everyone seems to be running a small business, making towns and cities exciting, loud and vibrant - sleepy Canada take note.

Cambodia and Vietnam go together for me for one reason: both countries have suffered emensely in resent history. Vietnam spent over a third of the twentieth century embroiled in conflicts involving the French, Japanese and Americans. The brutality of the Vietnam-American war was summed up during an afternoon visit to the War Crimes museum in downtown Ho Chi Minh city; several visitors actually being reduced to tears. Outside on display are US fighter jets and tanks; inside is photographic evidence of the carnage created by these machines.

In Cambodia they suffered colaterally to the war in Vietnam. Like in Vietnam there are unexploded bombs and mines continuing to devastate civilians; dropped there as part of US strategy for combat in Vietnam. Different is the rise of a brutally repressive and destructive government. Regional instability led to the rise of the Khmer Rouge, which in the mid-1970s sought to forcibly transform all Cambodians into peasent farmers. In the process a million Cambodians died and the country crashed. Testiments to the horrors of the Khmer Rouge can be found at the S21 detention centre museum and the killing fields, both in Phomn Penh, Cambodia's capital. At S21 pictures of the victims line the halls of the former school; many victims ended up being tortured in the most barbaric of manners. At the killing fields a pagoda containing hundreds of human skulls marks the spot where thousands of Cambodians faced execution. The whole expierence is sickening and heartbreaking.

What's amazing to me is how quickly these two war torn countries appear to have moved beyond recent historical events. There's no reason not to visit these countries. For tourists they have much to offer: historical ruins, rich cultures, beaches, exciting cities, tasty food, and undisturbed nature. However, do take the time to visit some of the difficult sites to bare witness to what these people have suffered.